Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang’s minimalist designs defined understated ’90s cool. Not long after their Fall 2014 collection, Nicole and Michael Colovos, creative directors for eight years, left the company. In the meantime, Andrew Rosen, CEO of Theory and Helmut Lang, has done a fair bit of restructuring. Most significant, Katayone Adeli, a designer beloved in the late ’90s for her expertly cut trousers, was briefly brought in to rethink the ready-to-wear and accessories. Adeli is no longer in the picture, but the team she trained is, and the look of the clothes owes something to her pared-back, sophisticated sensibility. Expect tailored jackets, leather separates and deftly draped dresses.